Nothing is as it seems –
that which looks casual is precious, what is masculine becomes feminine, what seems traditionally heavy is actually feather light, what seems for d
ay is for evening and garments for night are worn for day.
A casual, irreverent, maximalism
– garments combined with nonchalance for fun or as a statement.
The special and precious disguised as the ordinary.
Fabrics are not what they appear – what seems heavy by nature is light and what seem casual and pedestrian are couture quality precious fabrics.
Elements to style and combine, (the opposite of “one piece makes the look”).
Nightwear for day and day for night. - peignoir, pyjamas, plaid, monochrome checks.
Couture garments, men’s tailoring and shirting, boyfriend knits.
Sheer on opaque & sheer on sheer. - Opacity in dusty colours. A non-colour palette, almost.
STRUCTURE:
The slouchy and masculine contrasted with the ultra-feminine references to couture (basque, darting, emphasised hips).
A play on volumes, ultra light 3-D embroidery in silk and metal ribbons, ruffles, appliqué, large transparent feather-light gowns worn over skinny pants and a shirt.
Relaxed, diaphanous, Multi-layers of opacity. - Contrasted fronts and backs of looks – backs of skirts are often sheer.
A mans bomber jacket informs garment and fabric structure (quilting of silk organzas on cotton).
Slit backs on traditionally masculine garments allow them to be cinched to the female form.
Leather strings waistcoats and belt shorts.
PRINT:
A return to the craft of silk screening – having focused on digital printing tor the past two seasons, no digital prints at all in this collection.
Floral prints inspired by the paintings of Lucien Freud.
One print on many fabric qualities from the light and sheer to the heavy.
Many tartans, flowers, poppies. Blown up Prince-of-Wales check.
FABRICS:
Sheer, organza in pure and mixed silk, lamé, chiffon, crêpe de chine, natural and beaded denim, silk taffeta, linen, devoré sweatshirt cottons, silk and viscose velvet, sheer cotton voile, English woven silks, cotton lawn, rustically knit lurex, tone-on-tone embroidery.
PALETTE:
Familiar and unthreatening, never vivid, dusty. Contrasted yet often muted, faded. Silver, russet, petrol, powder and duck egg blue, moss, faded orange, peach, tea rose, flesh, sand and ivory, the traditional colourways of tartan.
ACCESSORIES:
Oversized leather envelope and faux leopard clutch. Tartan and black and white checker print leather stilettos. Stilettos in silk velour, lattice wedges. Minimalist and maximalist silver plate jewellery, leather laces as belts.
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