For the Spring Summer 2012 season, Veronica Etro offers a clear return to elegance. At its core, the collection has been distilled to essentials. The simplification of silhouettes and prints, however, takes on a new life with a touch of the modern Jazz Age, a theme that weaves its way around the collection in a subtle but consistent way.
Inspired by Futurist artist Fortunato Depero, Etro’s signature prints have been reduced to their most simple forms. The House paisley has been deconstructed until it resembles a broken collage. Stenciled florals and paisleys have a new modern look; geometrics are effortlessly folded into the mix, adding an exotic edge. An innovative new technique involves printing a fabric, then plissé pleating it, and then overprinting again to create burnt inky edges on the pleats. Also new this season: patterns have been strategically placed to emphasize the curves of the body, and black or white curved inserts break the visual space.
This season’s materials are silky and fluid, yet possess a weighty quality that gives them a more luxurious hand. Devoré, crêpe de Chine, silk and satin flow easily around the body and underscore a distinct femininity. Meanwhile, intricate stone or thread embroideries, and large tiled pailettes, showcase the capabilities of Etro’s exquisite workmanship. The fabrics are rendered in sorbet colors, like apricot, mint, raspberry, lemon, peach, cream and ice blue, mixed with harder pop colors like lime green or poppy orange. Black block trim cuts the softness.
The drop waist or no waist dress takes center stage in the collection. With trompe l’oeil V fronts, halter necks, the dresses feature simple, yet unusual constructions. Curved hems show off lower layers of silky fringe or printed plissé. Negative geometric space and strategic cut outs add a sportiness, while the sliced strips on the lower halves create a dance-like movement. The same loose, boxy shapes are applied to tops and skirts which appear to be one piece. Short shorts are made in compact knits, worn with printed silk shirts, long cardigans, kimono coats or tuxedo jackets. A sprinkling of pants are offered in cropped wide leg versions.