Dark and decadent silhouettes step into the spotlight for John Galliano Fall-Winter 2012/13. The rebel heroine creates a provocative silhouette in luxurious equestrian cuts as seen through the eyes of Aubrey Beardsley. The collection takes its cue from aristocratic heiresses set in the wilds of the English landscape, their stately grandeur inspiring a bold modern attitude.

Tailored riding coats with exaggerated capes and feminine draped collars have fitted waists, contrasting lengths and soft plissé movement. Mohairs, brushed with neon accents, clash with an autumnal palette of teal, russet, ochre, in shades from the forest woodland to the crisp dawn mist.

Dramatic collars and capes are set against pleats, little plissé riding coats and sensual stretch wool is draped over muslin undercoats. Feathered berets crown feather cut leathers. Leather spikes accent shoulders and pockets, as soft collars are folded into ‘bubble’ cut jackets. Caban coats are finished with fox fur sleeves while skirts are cut with provocative transparent splits. Trousers use a circular jockey cut as masculine and feminine attitudes collide.

Evening dresses mix a sensual modernity in bias cut chiffon, darkest blues and vibrant reds. Diamond cut gowns with aristocratic prints of oversized crystal and Baroque paneling create dramatic silhouettes. Frilled billowing chiffons in smokey greys and blues clash with ethereal plissé caped dresses and graphite embroidery to showcase the new Galliano muse.

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