Languid yet severe, with a twisted oriental flavour, the Marni Resort Eveningwear is mysteriously decadent. The silhouette is elongated, with the waist on focus. The tension bet
ween liquid and firm is constant: curvilinear skirts draw womanly architectures; fluid kimono robes create flowing structures around the body. The play of masculine and feminine adds nuance: boxy jackets worn with short skirts hint at mannish tuxedos; coatdresses are worn with embroidered collar shirts as to
suggest a charming shyness. Long dresses with wide sleeves add a note of fatal drama that is gracious and restrained. Rich textures are used in a sculptural way on feminine dresses and severe coats; embroideries on the collar replace necklaces, turning decoration into structure. Among the fluid modernist echoes, raffia and studs taken from the western repertoire work as ruptures, suggesting layered iconographies.
The color palette is dense and nocturnal: midnight blue, black, ivory, dashes of powder pink and gold. Flower prints bring accents of inky blue.
Fabrics are compact and precious: crepe marocaine, faille, silk crepe.
Accessories have a sleek modernist feel. Patent black sandals have a thin ankle strap and a golden heel. Thin leather waistbands are closed with modernist gold buckles. Wide satin headbands graciously embrace the forehead with a flat bow on the front, and one on the back. Earrings have a deco feel: cabochon clips hold thin metal elements ending in rounded pendants or hold clusters of spheres and meridiens.
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