The Miu Miu Women's Fall/Winter 2014/15 catwalk show champions the "no design" concept, meaning a rejection of formal style for style's sake. The starting point of the collectio
n is the real world, without the pretension of decoration, and the emblem of this creative process is the windbreaker.
An everyday item, the windbreaker has been transformed, with new materials and a new construction to give it a new identity.
It's a puffa jacket that's not puffy, with very flat padding and visible quilting, in either nylon or lame', and comes together with the padded skirts, either pleated satin or embroidered brocade, to form what looks like a new type of suit.
Statement pieces are the leather, lame' or PVC coats with a purposely masculine edge, almost as if they were borrowed from men's workwear. These alternate with simple shapes like A-line dresses drawing attention to the normality and search for the everyday in the collection. Distinctive for their exquisiteness are the boyfriend feel coats with intarsia, the Breitzuranz fur coats with two-tone knitted trims, the natural, spotted sheepskins and the chic, hand-knits.
The catwalk venue itself is an invasion of industrial scaffolding wrapped in transparent PVC, reflecting the spirit of the collection through some of the same elements that feature in the accessories.
PVC boots or wellingtons share the stage with nude sandals bearing minimal bows and nut and bolt details, while the bags, nappa leather or satin and small or medium in size, have a sporty feel.
The broad colour palette ranges from pastel nuances to vivid reds and yellows, peppered by greys and blues in between.
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