For A/W13 Paul Smith presents a collection rich in texture and touched with modernity. Developing S/S13's sun-blushed colour palette, for the new season wintry shades of purple and turquoise are complimented by vivid citrus tones and contrasted with more muted khaki and black.
Fabrics from the archives of artisanal Italian mills are rewoven to offer contemporary interpretations of sartorial staples. Couture cloths, often the fare of more orthodox Parisian houses, and thick alpaca boucle is delivered in unconventional colours to create modern pieces. Belted military overcoats are lined with long haired sheepskin and quilted trousers, jackets and even a cape come in boiled cashmere cloth filled with white Hungarian goose down. With every stitch and dye, traditional fabrics are injected with fresh appeal.
Print is a primary focus across the collection, particularly in magnified houndstooth patterns on shirting and in hazy marbling on outerwear. Silhouette in tailoring and overcoats gain volume in the body and trousers but are kept modern and minimal in tight shoulders, shorter length, laser cut pockets and bluff seam construction.
Knitwear juxtaposes hardened edges in bright soft mohair mixed into jacquards, bold intarsia and fading stripes all on simpler crew necks. Suiting evolves from the slim, accentuated form of last season. Ties tight, shirts buttoned and trousers high, jackets come short in the body, worn under double-breasted, patterned overcoats. Prim and proper pops of colour are strong throughout tailored pieces
In accessories and footwear the classics have been revitalised with modern construction; the Paul Smith holdall comes in contrasting gold and silver plated hardware against Spanish leather dyed in jewel and complimentary colours and the Chelsea boot is reworked with a zip back and trainer sole.