Exotic black. Sober but slashed. A seductive, Belle de Jour spirit. For Emilio Pucci Fall Winter 2012, Creative Director Peter Dundas creates a subversive game of contrasts where an artifice of tightly crafted elegance is purposely destroyed.

The collection’s sharp, graphic quality is inspired by House history, yet is newly interpreted in a play on dark surfaces and textures. The Pucci girl is freshly covered up this season. Or is she? Sheer veiling and black transparencies tease the idea of bare skin, creating a new allure that is less overt. Deep slashes reveal a touch of punk simmering beneath a perfect surface of refinement.

New, oversized volumes are drawn straight from the world of menswear. A boxy Alpine lamb peacoat swings over newly-cropped trousers. A sensual, chiffon veiled jumpsuit is paired with a masculine black beaver overcoat. Languid gold lame men’s pajamas slither under a Mongolian lamb cardigan. Tuxedo jackets and trenchcoats create a fierce femininity, just like the slick gloss of patent serpent on a beaver trimmed Montgomery duffel coat. Dresses possess the throw-on, non-chalance of Dundas’ signature Tshirt dress. Black doubled faced wool dresses are disrupted by primal-looking lacerations in black chiffon. A white double faced cady gown, slashed with crystal-crusted inserts and paired with a white mink duffel coat is how the Pucci girl would walk down the aisle.

Rich embroidery offers a veneer of decadence and a new lens from which to view pattern. Clusters of jet beading and tiny passamentry balls whirl on a midnight blue chiffon cardigan. Crocodile appliques – both real and in velvet appliques - create a 3D scale effect on body skimming dresses. Classic menswear graphics appear on a houndstooth embroidery while crystals are configured into Fair Isle patterns on chiffon blouses. Carta Fiorentina, Italian book-lining paper, has inspired a new marbleized print. A kaleidoscope print features marble and graphic motifs tied to Faberge enamel work on hard clutches. Key colors are powdery flesh, sky blue, Florentine violet, black and white.

Sumptuous materials and impeccable Italian craftsmanship create a playground for superb luxury: shiny metallic woven tweeds or patent leather, contrast with matte compact double faced wool, silk crepes and the buttery touch of rich crocodile.

The Pucci girl is always on the road. This season she takes a voyage into a men’s wardrobe and spins back out with a new, coy sleekness.

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