Punched with youth and glamour, Peter Dundas presents a Fall 2013 Emilio Pucci collection writ largely with the magnetism of graphic tones and patterns. An irreverent glance at the 1920s started the wheels in motion, yanking hems high and then higher still.   The silhouettes are youthful, the attitude defiant. A twisted innocence, inflected with just a touch of Mia Farrow, paints an alluring picture for the Pucci girl.  At once feminine but tamed with a modern, insouciant ease, she’s awash in something beguiling and new.

Brief tunic-shaped dresses, a key shape for the season, take the eyes off the waist and onto the legs. The skirt hemlines swish and swing, trimmed with embroidered or jet micro baguette edges, and are paired with boxy, cropped jackets embellished with bugle beads or metal studs.  Slim, cropped cigarette pants and sharply cut tuxedo jackets provide the tailoring foundation.

Pattern is, as always, paramount. But has now been achieved with the 3D workmanship of intricate gold metal or thread embroideries or the new quilted effects of leather and guipure lace. Traditional print makes an unmistakable entrance in graphic, art deco patterns worked on wisps of chiffon that have been dip dyed for a smoky, antiqued effect.   Even the flesh and mint dyed mink, worked into quilted intarsias or the snow leopard printed pony skin, all convey a fresh sense of texture.

For evening, the hemlines drop and the temperature rises in body skimming gowns featuring silk crepe or lace cutout techniques on transparent bodices.  The models’ legs are perched on metal heel stiletto sandals with suede ankle cuffs while boxy shoulder bags or quilted clutches add a ladylike finish.

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